Bicaz Gorge and the Red Lake: A Guide to Romania's Alpine Drive

The road between the towns of Bicaz and Gheorgheni passes through one of Romania’s most dramatic natural landscapes. Here, the Bicaz River has carved a narrow limestone canyon known as Bicaz Gorge (Cheile Bicazului), while just a few kilometres away sits the tranquil Red Lake (Lacul Roșu), a mountain lake with a surprising origin story.

What makes Bicaz Gorge special

The gorge stretches for roughly eight kilometres, with sheer cliffs rising up to 300 metres on either side of the two-lane road. The limestone walls are home to a variety of alpine plants and birds, and the road itself twists through tunnels and overhangs that make the drive feel like a proper mountain adventure. In places, the cliffs seem close enough to touch from a car window, and the sound of the Bicaz River echoes below.

The story of Red Lake

Red Lake (known locally as Lacul Roșu or Gyilkos-tó in Hungarian) was formed in 1837 when a landslide blocked the Bicaz River. The lake takes its name from the reddish iron oxides washed down from the surrounding mountains, which give the water a distinctive hue in certain light. The trunks of drowned fir trees still rise from the lake, creating an eerie but beautiful scene that has inspired many local legends.

Getting there and around

The gorge and lake are located along National Road DN12C, which connects the towns of Bicaz in Neamț County and Gheorgheni in Harghita County. The road is part of the scenic route between Transylvania and Moldavia. If you are driving from the south, you will pass through the gorge before reaching the lake; from the north, the lake appears first. There is a car park near the lake shore, and from there you can walk to several viewpoints.

When to go

The area is accessible year-round, but each season offers a different experience. Spring brings rushing water and fresh greenery; summer is the busiest time, with warm days ideal for hiking and boating on the lake; autumn paints the forests in gold and red, and winter can be magical, with snow dusting the cliffs and the lake sometimes freezing over. Be aware that the road can be slippery in winter, so check conditions before setting out.

What to do in the area

• Walk or drive through the gorge – Pull over at the designated viewpoints to admire the cliffs and photograph the road as it disappears around bends.
• Take a short hike – Trails lead from the lake to nearby viewpoints, such as the one above the lake on the eastern side, offering panoramic views.
• Rent a rowboat or pedal boat on Red Lake – Glide between the dead tree trunks and soak in the silence (in summer).
• Visit the nearby Bicaz Dam – A short drive south of the gorge, the dam on the Bistrița River creates a large reservoir and offers another scenic stop.

Tips for visiting

• Start early to avoid the midday crowds, especially on summer weekends.
• Bring layers – even in summer, the gorge and lake can be cool due to the altitude and shade.
• Have some cash for small purchases or boat rentals, as card payment may not always be available in remote spots.
• Drive carefully: the road is narrow and popular with motorcyclists and cyclists.

Bicaz Gorge and Red Lake sit within the Hășmaș Mountains, part of the Eastern Carpathians. The area is a natural gateway to other attractions in Neamț and Harghita counties, making it an easy addition to any Transylvanian itinerary.