Bulz: Romania's Cheesy Grilled Polenta Worth Knowing
Bulz is a hearty Transylvanian dish of polenta wrapped around cheese and grilled until golden, often served with bacon or an egg. Here's what makes it so beloved.
Illustration: AI-generated image
If you have already tried mămăligă, Romania's comforting cornmeal porridge, then bulz is its great outdoorsy cousin. This traditional dish takes polenta to another level by wrapping it around a generous chunk of cheese and grilling it until the outside is crisp and the inside is molten. It is a staple of shepherd cooking in the Carpathian Mountains and a must-try for anyone who loves rustic, satisfying food.
What is bulz?
Bulz (pronounced "boolz") is a simple dish with humble origins. At its core, it consists of soft polenta formed into balls or cylinders with a piece of cheese hidden in the centre. The polenta is then grilled over an open flame or baked in an oven until the surface develops a golden, slightly charred crust. The result is a contrast of textures: crunchy outside, creamy cornmeal inside, and melted, salty cheese in the middle.
The cheese used in bulz is typically a strong sheep's cheese, such as brânză de burduf, which is aged in fir bark and has a tangy, piquant flavour. Telemea, Romania's feta-style cheese, is also common. Sometimes bacon or smoked pork is added, and many variations include a fried egg on top or a dollop of sour cream (smântână) on the side.
Where does bulz come from?
Bulz is strongly associated with Transylvania and the mountain regions of Romania, where shepherds needed a portable, high-energy meal. Polenta was easy to make in large pots over a fire, and cheese was a product of the sheep they tended. Combining the two into a compact, grillable parcel made sense for life on the move. Today, bulz has moved from the pastures to restaurants and homes across the country, but it never lost its rustic character.
How is bulz made?
Making bulz is straightforward, though it requires a bit of patience and a hot grill or oven. First, a thick polenta is cooked, usually from coarse cornmeal, with a pinch of salt and sometimes a little butter or milk for extra richness. While the polenta is still warm and pliable, take a handful and flatten it into a disc. Place a cube or slice of cheese in the centre, then fold the polenta over to enclose it completely, shaping it into a ball or a short log.
The parcels are then placed on a grill, griddle, or in a hot oven. They should be turned occasionally until the outside is browned and crisp, which takes about 10 to 15 minutes over medium-high heat. The trick is to get a good crust without drying out the inside. Some cooks brush the bulz with a little oil or bacon fat before grilling to help it brown.
How to enjoy bulz
Bulz is best eaten hot, straight from the grill. The classic accompaniments are simple but effective: a fried egg with a runny yolk, a few slices of crispy bacon, or a generous spoonful of sour cream. For a more substantial meal, it can be served alongside a fresh tomato and onion salad, which cuts through the richness. In many places, bulz is also offered with a side of pickles (murături) for an extra tangy kick.
If you are travelling in Romania, look for bulz on the menus of traditional restaurants, especially those in mountain resorts or rural areas. It is often listed as "bulz ciobănesc" (shepherd's bulz) to emphasise its heritage. At home, it makes a wonderful winter dish when cooked in the oven, filling the kitchen with the smell of toasted corn and melting cheese.
Whether you are planning a trip to the Carpathians or simply want to bring a taste of Romania into your own kitchen, bulz is a dish that rewards a little effort with a lot of comfort.
